Category Archives: Wish List

Deuces 2012

Well, 2012 is over, which means:

a) I’ll be 23 soon, another foot in the grave…

b) I’ll be graduating from Clemson in 5 months or so

c) I need a job soon

d) It’s time for a tick list evaluation

Since Christmas, I’ve made a handful of trips to the Chattanooga/North Georgia area to dispatch a good bit of stuff from my most recent list, especially from Rocktown.  Even managed to do a couple unexpected classics along the way…  I’ll leave the spray up to my scorecard (and yes, as a matter of fact, there are people out there logging easy rock climbs…) It’s funny how it feels like doing one boulder problem (Throttle, in my case) can send the season in the right direction.   So after a couple 1/2 week or week-long climbing trips, I came back to Lexington to go to my roommate Jon’s wedding.  I got word that it was raining in Chatty from some friends, and decided to make it a late night and go do some karaoke with the Lex-bros at Main St. Bar and Grill.  We wished Jon and Liz the best, met the black Lt. Dan (who told us Richard Pryor jokes and directed our pursuit of the fairer sex), and I exploded my knee singing the Darkness.  I’m not sure what exactly happened to it, but it hurt like hell yesterday.  Improvement today was exponential.  Hopefully it’s a minor speedbump in an otherwise successful season.

karaoke

I’ll be heading back to Clemson after I publish this post, to chill out and unpack for a day while I get ready for the next semester, which I hope will be as light as it’s supposed to be.  12 hours, an english class… pretty excited to see what the next semester holds.  2012 was pretty rad, and I’d be stoked if 2013 was half as good.

‘Tis the Season

So the weekends I haven’t spent climbing at the Triple Crown have all been invested in hiking and projecting at the local spots around Hwy 11.  Here’s some pics of some stuff I’ve found in the area, though it’s mostly blank, hard, tall, or some combination of the three.

Dylan checking the roof for holds.  There ain’t none, I chipped ’em all off.

Highball slab in SC, shocker.

50 feet tall and blank *sigh*.  Maybe an opportunity for something on the right face, but it would have to be TR’ed.  Or maybe you could plug some cams?!  WHOOOOOO

New line I found and cleaned up to find that I can’t do the first move.  Looks like I’ll have to recruit a strong friend to come do it.  Big first move to a sloping edge traverse to jugs.  Hope the start hold doesn’t break with my fat arse trying to pull on.

Eric taking a stroll up a new classic in the Bearfields, Alley Oop Scoop (V3/4).

I’ve got some footage that I’ll post up soon of a little circuit of old and new lines I’ve been running up there that’s actually really nice.  The trail day is up there this weekend, it will be nice to see folks up there cleaning the area up and getting into the local boulders.

After stuffing my gullet last weekend for Thanksgiving with the fam, I made a trip up to Rocktown and Zahnd with Brazell to take advantage of the surprisingly cool temps (highs were in the 40’s!)

We spent Saturday opening up new projects for the coming season.  Brazell put some effort into the Womb (V10), Blackout (V9/10), and Swamp Sauce (V8) (which he was kind enough to leave unfinished so that we had a reason to go back down to Blue) while I punted off of Blue (V6), Big Bad (V5), and realized that the finger is not close to allowing me to get back on Nose Candy (V6).  I did manage to put down the line to the right of The Hobbit, Full Circle (V4/5) as well as doing some thing to the left of the Womb that was pretty dumb and a new warmup in the orb area that was real nice.

We went to Zahnd on Sunday as soon as we woke up and warmed up so Brazell could try Harvest Moon (V8) and I could put some effort in Chisel Chest (V5) and Razor’s Edge (V6).  Unfortunately we didn’t do any of those problems (typical) but Brazell did do the low start to Razor’s Edge, Gillette (V7/8) and I did a rad problem around the corner called Bear Hug (V3).

As it gets colder, I have a revised (long) list of things I would like to do this season (or next season, or whenever I get strong).  It’s similar to my New Year’s resolutions list from last year with the addition of some new ones and removal of a few I decided I was less psyched on…

HP40

Getcha Some (V5), Uniball (V4), Mortal Kombat (V4), Trick or Treat (V6), and Honky Tonkin (V4).  Most of these should be pretty reasonable this year, considering I can sack up on Mortal Kombat and catch Trick or Treat on a cold enough day.

Rocktown

This area houses my longest list, and I hope to spend the most time here this year.  The Hobbit (V5), Croc Block (V5), Little Bad (V4/5), Big Bad (V5), Blue (V6), Nose Candy (V6… need a working finger…), Pythagorean Theorem (V4, accdg to the new guide book…), Sinus (V3/5/wrong name?  Left of Pythagorean), Iron Claw (V7, hopeful…), Slaper (V5) and Soap on a Rope (V4/12).

LRC

My list is shorter here this year, mostly harder stuff I would like to break through with.  Special Agent (V7), Grimace (V7/8), SPACE (V8), White Trash (V5), and Rage (V5, still punting off the topout holds).

Rumbling Bald (ugh)

Maybe I’ll do some of these if I ever decide to go back to the land of the anti-George.  Pit BBQ (V6), Lewis Lunge (V5, will not happen with my finger as it is…), Green Knob (V5), and the sit? V7?  People say it’s not much harder?

Zahnd

Equally psyched on here and Rocktown.  Which is convenient, considering they’re basically next door to each other, minus a 30 minute drive down the worst road ever.  Razor’s Edge (V6), Chisel Chest (V5), Turret (V3/4?) and Solar Flare (V3, bad end of the day climbing going on here last weekend…)  Real pumped to get back.

Boone

Throttle (V5, finally close on this thing), West Texas (V3), Beasley’s Face (V5), Nitrous Oxide (V5), M1 (V3, ugh), Mighty Mouse (V5, ugh), Haptos (V4).  Probably getting too cold up there right about now.  Maybe next year, or maybe we’ll have another freak warm weekend and I’ll get back up there again.

Hueco

Everything.  Lobster Claw (V5), Moonshine Roof (V4), Sign of the Cross (V3) are priority.  There are lots more, but these need to happen quick next time or I’m gonna lose it.

I’ve got a list of lines locally that I want to do also, but I’ll keep those to myself for now (since nobody cares what my slab projects are anyway) and fill you in as they happen.

That’s enough blogging for one morning.  Before you slam it, fram it.

Image

Mulletino Vidya

Here’s a vid of me sending mulletino to the lip/thrashing my shoulder.

Nice to cross a roof problem off the list, I hate steep climbing. Did this one for Ouyang. Ended up having a really good day that trip, finally finished off Green Lantern (which is probably the same difficulty as Mulletino) and repeat some of the harder stuff I’d done there in the past. Still waiting on that cold weather though, it was still in the 60’s during the hot parts of the day this weekend…

New Years Resolutions

1) Quit peeing out of my butt (probably due to drinking expired milk and eating dumpster pizza, mmmmm).
2) Climb some new boulder problems. Unfortunately, I was absent minded enough to delete my old blog without copying over the long list of boulders I wanted to climb. That list has changed a bit anyway, so here’s a bit of an updated wish list:

Rocktown, GA

1) Golden Shower – V5 – Great problem. Glad to have done it. Probably more like 4/5, but took a lot of effort from me regardless. Really pretty face.

2) Soap on a Rope – V4

3) Island of Beautiful Women – V3/4?

4) Pythagorean Theorem – V5

5) Nose Candy – V6

Stone Fort, TN

1) The Wave   – V6 – So psyched to tick this one off.  It will take some convincing for me to take V5 on this thing.  Caught it in perfect weather.

2) Manute Bol – V5 – Took the wave V6, felt guilty for taking this one too, so I won’t.  Feels tough for me, don’t think my body fits these moves really well… nice prob.

3) Super Mario Ext. – V6

4) Shotgun – V6 – 1/15/2012 – Awesome. First V6, and glad it was. Very fun boulder problem.

5) Ghengis Khan – V5

6) Space – V8 – SHUT UP, I do what I want

7) Two Shoes Jack – V4 – In actuality, probably at least 3 grades harder than space

8) Rage – V5 – Fell after the crux on the topout jugs of this thing yesterday (1/15), looking forward to getting back.

Horse Pens 40, AL

1) Getcha Some – V5

2) Hammerhead – V5 – 3/4/2012 – Wow.  Didn’t expect to do this thing anytime soon.

3) Mulletino to the lip – V4/5 – 1/6/2012 – “George, did you take V5 on your scorecard?” You will ask, and I will say “Yes, but then I went back and changed it to 4/5 cause I felt guilty”.  Glad to have it done, not worth whatever it did to my shoulder. OUCH

4) Trick or Treat – V6 – Can’t win it if ye ain’t in it SON!

5) Mortal Kombat – V4

6) Boogey Wonderland – V4 – 3/4/2012 – Still couldn’t tell you how I ended up on top of this thing.  Ridiculous

7) Uniball – V4

8) Green Lantern – V3 – 1/6/2012 – One hard arse V3

9) Orca – V3 – 3/4/2012 – Finally felt like V3

10) Horsepower – V3 – 3/4/2012 – Didn’t feel even remotely like V3, maybe V6?

11) Popeye – V5

Boone, NC

1) West Texas – V3

2) Pullin Teeth – V4 – 8/21/2012 – Feels like V5. Hard and a nice gauge of how my finger’s (hopefully) going to hold up this season.

3) Mighty Mouse – V5 – Ambitions

4) Haptos – V4

5) Patio Arete – V4

6) M1 – V3 – Scares the nuts off of me, I hate rockovers

7) Nitrous Oxide – V5

8) Throttle – V5 – Would mark a bigtime progression for me.  Really want to do this one.

9) The Fin – V5 – Got close on this one, just couldn’t keep it together to finish.

Rumbling Bald, NC

1) Lewis Lunge – V5

2) The Sail – V4

3) Pit BBQ – V6

4) Grease Pit – V5 2/18/2012 – Can’t take 6 on this thing… feels every bit of V5 to me though.  Lewis Lunge is hard…

5) Brackish One – V4

6) Slave Driver – V3 – 1/4/2012 – Can’t decide if this or Genesis is the hardest V3 of all time

7) Campus Problem – V5

Hueco Tanks

1) Sign of the Cross – V3 – Hueco Tanks, should go without saying.  Need to do this if I go back…

2) Moonshine Roof – V4 – Will also be a major goal if I make it back to Hueco this year.

3) Bodysnatchers – V4

4) Lobster Claw – V5 – Would be nice to send V5 in Hueco, though it doesn’t seem likely.

5) Wicicala Cave – V5

6) Ghetto Simulator – V2 – Didn’t walk down to this one last trip, need to make sure it happens this year.

7) T- Bone Shuffle – V4

8) Jingus Bells – V5- Not sure how my balls will feel when I’m standing under this one, but it looks incredible.

Other Stuff

1) Riverfront – V5 – At Cumberland, one of the prettiest problems I’ve ever seen…

I plan to add/tick from this list as new problems come and (hopefully) go.  This is more for myself than for the 2 people reading this, but who knows, maybe this list will get someone else psyched to hit up these areas and try these problems.