We made another trip to Horse Pens 40 this past weekend, and ended up having a real rad weekend. Team DAG (Dale Andy George) held down the fort Friday night and Saturday, with Team DL-OMJ-G-BAB (Dookie-locks-old-man-johnson-grace-b.a.-barackus) showing up on Sunday to close out the weekend. Here’s the rundown.
Friday night, we rolled in and I couldn’t resist. I haven’t been like that in a long time, lately I’ve been pretty patient about sleeping first and climbing the next morning… Anyway, we got out of the car and it was a bit warm, but my skin felt bullet-hard and the rock felt awesome, so Dale psyched me up to head into the boulders and warm up real quick to try Getcha’ Some (V5). Surprisingly enough, I warmed up, did the crux move in a couple tries, then gave it a go from the start and ended up on top. I wish I could do that with projects every time, it’s so nice to have the pressure off a trip quickly so the psyche remains high and you can try new stuff… Alas.
So the next day, we warmed up, team pooped, and got after it. Standard procedure. While Andy was doing his accelerated warm-up thing, I made my way over to Blue Justice (V4) and pieced it together in a couple o’ goes (this was the site of a punt-fest the weekend before). After that, I walked over and Andy did No Tranquility (V9) in like 10 minutes. The boy is too strong. We’re going to have to break his bones. By this time, it’s like 10:15 and Dale is psyched to get on Slider (V9). At 10:30 we decide Dale isn’t all that psyched on Slider after all and move on. Dale is not in his happy place. Andy heads off to open up every double digit project in the park, and me and Dale settle down at the Flow after we all tried the impossible Moon Arete (V6/12) for a bit. After we bailed on that, Andy went to try Illusions (V11) and me and Dale stayed for him to do the Flow (V7) and myself to seal the deal on Mainline (V4). Somewhere in the next 45 minutes, the psyche took a serious swing for the better, and Dale’s trip took off. I did Mainline and then got psyched on Sideline (V5) which now has a tree that ends up in your anus as you top out. We both dabbed (Dale would want me to tell you that he dabbed less than I did), but we both “did” it, then Dale gave the Flow the proverbial ‘one more go’ and sent. This is where he started to send every V7 in the park.
Between then and the end of the trip Sunday afternoon, Dale ticked the following (all V7):
- The Thief (which Andy also crushed)
- It’s a Natural
- Slabalicious “oh, that’s V6” SHUTUP
- Slush Puppy Low
- Cuts Like a Knife Low “oh that’s 5.12+” SHUTUP
- Sweet Spot (has anybody ever done this before?)
He also did Gadget Direct (V4/5) and flashed Spirit (V3) for good measure (and to round his Sunday V-point total to north of 50 points… sheesh).
Saturday evening, right before we went to shove Mexican food down our gullets, Andy did the impossible Landslide (V8/13) and the crew left very psyched.
Most of Sunday was spent following Dale around and watching him piss on everything he touched, with the exception of an hour or so spent letting me take sports-action whippers off the top of Mortal Combat (V4) which finally, with the psyche of Andy, Adam, and B.A. Barackus, went down.
It’s been a long time since I’ve felt as good as I did sticking the top hold of that climb. Here’s a video:
A couple other things happened. I tried Popeye (V5) and remembered that I can’t campus, I’m not flexible, and I’m a bad rock climber. Whatever. I also did a nice problem near Ten Pins for the first time called Plinko (V3) which I would recommend to anyone.
Very psyched lately. Hueco training regimen is in full swing. Only 3.5 weeks left til we’re on our way out west. Until then, I’ll be in class poking my eyeballs out and watching the second hand until we’re loading up the cars for the trip.
For now, it looks like the weather’s gonna be trash for the next coupla days… gym seshes… maybe Boone this weekend?