Monthly Archives: February 2013

Team Psyche-Fun-Crushfest 2013

We made another trip to Horse Pens 40 this past weekend, and ended up having a real rad weekend.  Team DAG (Dale Andy George) held down the fort Friday night and Saturday, with Team DL-OMJ-G-BAB (Dookie-locks-old-man-johnson-grace-b.a.-barackus) showing up on Sunday to close out the weekend.  Here’s the rundown.

Friday night, we rolled in and I couldn’t resist.  I haven’t been like that in a long time, lately I’ve been pretty patient about sleeping first and climbing the next morning… Anyway, we got out of the car and it was a bit warm, but my skin felt bullet-hard and the rock felt awesome, so Dale psyched me up to head into the boulders and warm up real quick to try Getcha’ Some (V5).  Surprisingly enough, I warmed up, did the crux move in a couple tries, then gave it a go from the start and ended up on top.  I wish I could do that with projects every time, it’s so nice to have the pressure off a trip quickly so the psyche remains high and you can try new stuff… Alas.

So the next day, we warmed up, team pooped, and got after it.  Standard procedure.  While Andy was doing his accelerated warm-up thing, I made my way over to Blue Justice (V4) and pieced it together in a couple o’ goes (this was the site of a punt-fest the weekend before).  After that, I walked over and Andy did No Tranquility (V9)  in like 10 minutes.  The boy is too strong.  We’re going to have to break his bones.  By this time, it’s like 10:15 and Dale is psyched to get on Slider (V9).  At 10:30 we decide Dale isn’t all that psyched on Slider after all and move on.  Dale is not in his happy place.  Andy heads off to open up every double digit project in the park, and me and Dale settle down at the Flow after we all tried the impossible Moon Arete (V6/12) for a bit.  After we bailed on that, Andy went to try Illusions (V11) and me and Dale stayed for him to do the Flow (V7) and myself to seal the deal on Mainline (V4).  Somewhere in the next 45 minutes, the psyche took a serious swing for the better, and Dale’s trip took off.  I did Mainline and then got psyched on Sideline (V5) which now has a tree that ends up in your anus as you top out.  We both dabbed (Dale would want me to tell you that he dabbed less than I did), but we both “did” it, then Dale gave the Flow the proverbial ‘one more go’ and sent.  This is where he started to send every V7 in the park.

Dale climbing on some of those classic HP40 slopers... The Thief (V7/8) in impeccable focus.  Adam Johnson Photo.

Dale climbing on some of those classic HP40 slopers… The Thief (V7/8) in impeccable focus. Adam Johnson Photo.

Between then and the end of the trip Sunday afternoon, Dale ticked the following (all V7):

  • The Thief (which Andy also crushed)
  • It’s a Natural
  • Slabalicious “oh, that’s V6” SHUTUP
  • Slush Puppy Low
  • Cuts Like a Knife Low “oh that’s 5.12+” SHUTUP
  • Sweet Spot (has anybody ever done this before?)

He also did Gadget Direct (V4/5) and flashed Spirit (V3) for good measure (and to round his Sunday V-point total to north of 50 points… sheesh).

Saturday evening, right before we went to shove Mexican food down our gullets, Andy did the impossible Landslide (V8/13) and the crew left very psyched.

Most of Sunday was spent following Dale around and watching him piss on everything he touched, with the exception of an hour or so spent letting me take sports-action whippers off the top of Mortal Combat (V4) which finally, with the psyche of Andy, Adam, and B.A. Barackus, went down.

A nice shot Adam took of me on Mortal Combat a couple of years ago, maybe my first session on it?

A nice shot Adam snapped of me on Mortal Combat a couple of years ago, maybe my first session on it?

It’s been a long time since I’ve felt as good as I did sticking the top hold of that climb.  Here’s a video:

A couple other things happened.  I tried Popeye (V5) and remembered that I can’t campus, I’m not flexible, and I’m a bad rock climber.  Whatever.  I also did a nice problem near Ten Pins for the first time called Plinko (V3) which I would recommend to anyone.

Very psyched lately.  Hueco training regimen is in full swing.  Only 3.5 weeks left til we’re on our way out west.  Until then, I’ll be in class poking my eyeballs out and watching the second hand until we’re loading up the cars for the trip.

For now, it looks like the weather’s gonna be trash for the next coupla days… gym seshes… maybe Boone this weekend?

Happy trails.


Punxsutawney Phil is a Tool

This jerk (well, perhaps not this one in particular, but another stupid furry idiot who is clearly blind or doesn’t know well enough to be afraid of his shadow) has sentenced us to an early spring.  Between Al Gore’s global warming and weather predicting varmints, we may never get another day of good conditions for as long as we live.  Naturally, this will cause an inflation of grades, and soon, Millipede will be V7 again, meaning I won’t even have to rock climb next year to improve my 8a!  Maybe Punksuthak;dflj Phil ain’t so bad after all…

I’ve been doing pretty well about getting outside, and even managed to get up to the Bald for a day of demoralizing efforts on projects that I’m not sure I’ll ever do.  My efforts on sandstone lately have been much more rewarding.  I finally made it up Honky Tonkin’ and Uniball at HP40, both really nice problems (despite the dirt-burgling start on Uniball) and have almost come to terms with the fact that anything harder than V4 there is impossible.  I finally had my payday at Zahnd a couple weeks ago and managed to shut down all four problems that remained on my list there (The Turret, Solar Flare, Chisel Chest, and Razor’s Edge).  I even remembered to bust out the camera for R.E.!  My broski Dylan also managed to put it down just after me for his first of the grade.  Nice work bruh!  He won’t see this, because a) nobody reads my blog and b) he probably can’t read, but I feel obligated to give him a shout out anyway.  Here’s a video.

In other news, it appears as if La Sportiva has discontinued the Speedsters, which is devastating.  I broke down and bought a pair of futura’s.  Now I’m broke, but on the bright side, Doug says I’m ready for La Dura Dura, plus my shoes match my eyes, which will no doubt have throngs of women chasing me down at the crag.

Hueco is coming up in like 6 weeks, I couldn’t be more stoked.  Ready to (hopefully) put old projects down quickly and get psyched on some new ones as well.  As for now, I’m feeling trashed.  Need to recover and get psyched on getting strong in the coming weeks before heading to Texas!

Happy trails.