Monthly Archives: November 2012

‘Tis the Season

So the weekends I haven’t spent climbing at the Triple Crown have all been invested in hiking and projecting at the local spots around Hwy 11.  Here’s some pics of some stuff I’ve found in the area, though it’s mostly blank, hard, tall, or some combination of the three.

Dylan checking the roof for holds.  There ain’t none, I chipped ’em all off.

Highball slab in SC, shocker.

50 feet tall and blank *sigh*.  Maybe an opportunity for something on the right face, but it would have to be TR’ed.  Or maybe you could plug some cams?!  WHOOOOOO

New line I found and cleaned up to find that I can’t do the first move.  Looks like I’ll have to recruit a strong friend to come do it.  Big first move to a sloping edge traverse to jugs.  Hope the start hold doesn’t break with my fat arse trying to pull on.

Eric taking a stroll up a new classic in the Bearfields, Alley Oop Scoop (V3/4).

I’ve got some footage that I’ll post up soon of a little circuit of old and new lines I’ve been running up there that’s actually really nice.  The trail day is up there this weekend, it will be nice to see folks up there cleaning the area up and getting into the local boulders.

After stuffing my gullet last weekend for Thanksgiving with the fam, I made a trip up to Rocktown and Zahnd with Brazell to take advantage of the surprisingly cool temps (highs were in the 40’s!)

We spent Saturday opening up new projects for the coming season.  Brazell put some effort into the Womb (V10), Blackout (V9/10), and Swamp Sauce (V8) (which he was kind enough to leave unfinished so that we had a reason to go back down to Blue) while I punted off of Blue (V6), Big Bad (V5), and realized that the finger is not close to allowing me to get back on Nose Candy (V6).  I did manage to put down the line to the right of The Hobbit, Full Circle (V4/5) as well as doing some thing to the left of the Womb that was pretty dumb and a new warmup in the orb area that was real nice.

We went to Zahnd on Sunday as soon as we woke up and warmed up so Brazell could try Harvest Moon (V8) and I could put some effort in Chisel Chest (V5) and Razor’s Edge (V6).  Unfortunately we didn’t do any of those problems (typical) but Brazell did do the low start to Razor’s Edge, Gillette (V7/8) and I did a rad problem around the corner called Bear Hug (V3).

As it gets colder, I have a revised (long) list of things I would like to do this season (or next season, or whenever I get strong).  It’s similar to my New Year’s resolutions list from last year with the addition of some new ones and removal of a few I decided I was less psyched on…

HP40

Getcha Some (V5), Uniball (V4), Mortal Kombat (V4), Trick or Treat (V6), and Honky Tonkin (V4).  Most of these should be pretty reasonable this year, considering I can sack up on Mortal Kombat and catch Trick or Treat on a cold enough day.

Rocktown

This area houses my longest list, and I hope to spend the most time here this year.  The Hobbit (V5), Croc Block (V5), Little Bad (V4/5), Big Bad (V5), Blue (V6), Nose Candy (V6… need a working finger…), Pythagorean Theorem (V4, accdg to the new guide book…), Sinus (V3/5/wrong name?  Left of Pythagorean), Iron Claw (V7, hopeful…), Slaper (V5) and Soap on a Rope (V4/12).

LRC

My list is shorter here this year, mostly harder stuff I would like to break through with.  Special Agent (V7), Grimace (V7/8), SPACE (V8), White Trash (V5), and Rage (V5, still punting off the topout holds).

Rumbling Bald (ugh)

Maybe I’ll do some of these if I ever decide to go back to the land of the anti-George.  Pit BBQ (V6), Lewis Lunge (V5, will not happen with my finger as it is…), Green Knob (V5), and the sit? V7?  People say it’s not much harder?

Zahnd

Equally psyched on here and Rocktown.  Which is convenient, considering they’re basically next door to each other, minus a 30 minute drive down the worst road ever.  Razor’s Edge (V6), Chisel Chest (V5), Turret (V3/4?) and Solar Flare (V3, bad end of the day climbing going on here last weekend…)  Real pumped to get back.

Boone

Throttle (V5, finally close on this thing), West Texas (V3), Beasley’s Face (V5), Nitrous Oxide (V5), M1 (V3, ugh), Mighty Mouse (V5, ugh), Haptos (V4).  Probably getting too cold up there right about now.  Maybe next year, or maybe we’ll have another freak warm weekend and I’ll get back up there again.

Hueco

Everything.  Lobster Claw (V5), Moonshine Roof (V4), Sign of the Cross (V3) are priority.  There are lots more, but these need to happen quick next time or I’m gonna lose it.

I’ve got a list of lines locally that I want to do also, but I’ll keep those to myself for now (since nobody cares what my slab projects are anyway) and fill you in as they happen.

That’s enough blogging for one morning.  Before you slam it, fram it.

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