Monthly Archives: March 2012

Hueco Tanko

So last week we took off and ditched the warm, humid southern spring to hit up the dryer (with the exception of one day of sandstorming-blizzard-rainfest) Texas weather in the legendary Hueco Tanks State Park.  Anybody that reads this blog with any regularity is probably familiar with the New Years resolution list I put up a few months ago, and might remember that I had a list of problems from Hueco that I wanted to do this year when I went back.  To make a long, whiny story short, I didn’t put down a single problem on that list.  This is partially due to the fact that I didn’t get to a couple of them, but primarily due to the fact that problems in Hueco are hard.  I certainly tried Sign of the Cross (V3) and Ghetto Simulator (V2/5.13d as far as I’m concerned), but left both for a future trip.   Moonshine Roof (V4) also proved to be a pump-fest that spat me off the lip several times on our only day on East Mountain.  Lobster Claw (V5) was another that spat me off after sticking the crux from the start, and Wicicala Cave (V5) is just straight hard.  The new problems that I did somehow manage to do went as follows (to avoid the spray, skip past the bullets straight to the video).

  • V-Obsession (V5) – Cooler problem than I gave it credit for, looked sharp but turns out you hardly use the intimidating holds at all.
  • Girls of Juarez (V4) – Classic hueco roof jug pulling, and better than the 2 stars in the guidebook suggest.  The landing looks a bit spooky, but really turns into nothing with a couple pads and the best spotter in the southeast behind you (I’m giving you the stick Adam). 
  • Walrus in a Blender (V5) – One big move that finishes into a classic V2.  Cool horizontal dyno into a one handed swing on a super positive jug though, unlike anything else I’ve done outside.  
  • Choss Training (V3) – Bit of an epic.  Tried on the last trip, thought it would be a cake walk this year.  This turned out not to be the case.  I spent three days throughout the trip trying the big one-two-jump beta from the huge foot down low and got reaaaaal close that way, but eventually had to unlock some whack beta with a lil’ crimp pinch and some higher feet.  Finally did this thing on the last day, with the ranger honking  her horn at us to get out of the park.  Everybody else did it in their approach shoes.  Shout out to Ashima, whose tiny-hold usage was an inspiration to this no-jumping oaf.  Also, thanks to Dougie Fresh for walking back across the mountain to this thing with me for a last ditch effort.  IT’S TUESDAY, HERSH!

So with the blathering about my 4 new sends behind us, I’ll leave the two people who’ve made it this far through the post with a video me and Adam put together (which, for once, I’ve managed to finish editing in less than 6 months).

Problems featured are V-Obsession (V5), Girls of Juarez (V4), Moonshine Roof (V4), Coffee Achiever (V5), and Free Willy (V10).


1 Day

Spring break is starting at 5:00PM today for yours truly, and we’ll be making a return trip to the lovely Hueco Tanks near El Paso, TX.  My back is a bit sore, I’ve got a hole in my finger, and this has been a long, lousy week, but barring anything going terribly wrong on the day-long drive out there, things should get much better around 5 or 6PM tomorrow night, when we arrive at the ranch.  I’ve got a few problems in mind, with Moonshine Roof being the one that would really make the trip for me.  Here’s a few videos that I’ve been watching to get amped up for it, as if I need any help getting psyched…

Our classic vid from Hueco last year:

Raise Up from George Evans on Vimeo.

One from Patagonia of Lynn Hill crushing Dragonfly, Moonshine Roof, DDD, Chblanke, etc…

A new one from LT11

Louder Than 11 in Hueco from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.

Another new one from LT11

2012 Hueco Rock Rodeo – Highlights from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.

LT11 apparently spent a lot of time in Hueco this year…

New Years in Hueco Tanks – Evangalion (v13) from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.

And a couple others:

There’s a lot of other good ones, but these have been on replay for me this week. 2 classes and 4 hours at work left!