Monthly Archives: October 2011

First Couple Rumbling Trips of the Season

I’ll keep this one brief, but we made a couple trips to Rumbling Bald this weekend to take advantage of the pleasant weather. I’m still trying to take it easy on the finger (those granite crimps don’t seem to be too conducive to the healing process), but I did manage to put away a couple old projects as well as climb a couple new lines. I finally did Red Clouds Above (a problem I had put a good bit of effort into before I broke my ankle) and Liza Minelli Corner, which both turned out to be fantastic problems. I also did Crescent Crack for the first time, which was a blast. Don’t know how I’d avoided it for 2 years.

Here’s a little vid of me climbing a cool V3 on the East Side below Come out and Play, as well as Doug climbing the Campus Problem (V5) and Lewis Lunge Sit (V9). The footage is pretty blown out, unfortunately, but I figure it’s better than nothing.

Keep ya heart three stacks.


Fall Break at Horse Pens

This weekend marked our first “cool weather” trip to HP40 of the season.

I put the words “cool weather” in quotes because it was 70-something instead of 90-something out.  Still not ideal, but not unmanageable either.  We went down with a good crew, consisting of myself, Adam, Doug, Dale, Sarah, Beth Ann (AKA B.A. Baracus), and Kristin (who drives a car with a pink Browning sticker on it).

We rolled in late Friday night and started the now ritual procedures involved with a weekend at Horse Pens:

1. B.S. around the campfire (or lantern if there’s 8 zillion people from Florida State overtaking the campground) until we fall asleep.

2. Wake up and high-tail it to Huddle House to hang out with the locals and shovel big house platters down our gullets.

3. Head back to Horse Pens and prep for the day.

4. Warm up at Ten Pins and make our way into the field, realizing that Huddle House was a bad choice.

5. Finish the day having sent everything in the field wrecked our tips (and in Doug’s case, worn them down to straight bone).

6. Make our way to Mi Casita to listen to Mi-Casita-oke (bad country karaoke) and eat Cowboy Quesadillas (a feast that can bring any grown man to his knees in tears, a pound of justice, if you will).

This weekend everybody managed a solid send or two.  I’ll try to keep it brief and close up the post with some pics and a vid.

Adam: Old Man Johnson has done pretty much everything at Horse Pens already, but he repeated Hammerhead (V5) and managed to find a new send in Orca (V3) which was found to be super classic a rarely done gem a very goofy boulder problem.

Dale: Also sent Orca, pulled off a send of Hammerhead (worse than orca, according to Dale), as well as putting down the classic Earth Wind and Fire (V3) and a couple other easy (for him) problems such as Brawn (V3), Honky Tonkin’ (V4) and this really cool thing left of Genesis that’s not in the guidebook (at least not as an un-eliminate).

Doug: Doug pretty much came into this trip with the worst looking fingertips of all time, but somehow managed to repeat Litz Pocket Problem (V8) for the video and get some work done on Suspicion (V8) and Message from the Masters (V8) which he’ll do in cooler weather.

Sarah, B.A. Baracus, and Kristin all cruised up the Groove problems around the corner from Honky Tonkin’ as well as putting down sends of Silky (V0), the super fun problem at Ten Pins.

As for myself, I finally put down Genesis (V3), which had been manhandling me for some time now, as well as the Beach (V4), Brawn (V3), Red Arrow (V3), and the Sandbox (V2), easily my proudest send of all time.  The king line, the line beckoning to be climbed.  I also demolished my forearms scrambling trying to send Orca (no go) and made some progress on Centerpede, which should go when it’s a bit cooler.

I’m thinking of taking up a bit of a new hobby in photography if I can figure it out.  Here’s a few of my first shots that I snapped with Adam’s cameras (thanks bruh) to test the waters.

Doug on Message from the Masters (V8)

Austin Ouyang (who we met on the trip) sending Suspicion (V8)

Dale, doing something (V16)

And here’s a little vid of the unknown thing next to Genesis, Genesis, and Litz Pocket Problem.

(p.s. it will look better in HD on vimeo!)

Happy trails.

Psyche is High

Yesterday was the 2nd leg of the Triple Crown at The Stone Fort/LRC. 

And it ended up being a pretty awesome trip for all involved.  Sure the temps left a bit to be desired, but I’ll take 75 and sunny over 35 and sleeting any day of the week.  It was also nice to get to climb the problems on the 18th hole, big ups to the organizers for arranging that yesterday.  It was really cool to be able to climb problems we only get one shot at a year.

Strangely enough, the temps didn’t seem to keep anybody (at least from the Clemson crew) from having the best days we’ve ever had outside. I’ll try to piece together the crew’s scorecard (at least the new stuff) as well as I can… but I’m pretty much guaranteed to leave some stuff out.

Doug managed to win men’s advanced, obtain some swag, and pull off a ninja-roll/high-kick/bruce-banner-shirt-rip combo on stage with my favorite shirt.  He pieced together a very impressive scorecard ticking off Robbin the Toothfairy (V9), Dr. Atkinson (V8), and Blind Spot (V7), as well as a flash of Now and Zen (V7).  I can’t recall exactly what the rest of his scorecard was made up of, but I’m sure it was worthy, as evidenced by his skin.

Adam put down Frumundathunda, Rage, Sternum, and The Coven (all V5’s) as well as repeating Super Mario (V4), Midway (V7), and Shotgun (V6), and a handful of others (which was enough to get him bumped from intermediate).

Dale (soon to be Dr. Dale), sent his project, A Face in the Crowd Sit (V7) really quickly.  He also did Diesel Power (V5/6?) and repeated Shotgun (V6), and a whole bunch of V5’s (as well as sending some new ones, though I can’t remember what all he did…).

I also ended up climbing substantially better than I thought I would.  I picked up some anti-inflammatory pills prescribed for my little finger tweak and apparently they did the trick.  I ended the day with 12 new boulder problems (I’ll let my spraycard fill you in) as well as a few repeats.  The highlight of the day for me was my flash of The Coven (V5), a cool horse pens-esque problem on the 18th hole, which was open only for the comp.  I’m sure it’s soft, but it seemed to suit me pretty well, so who knows.  Guess I can’t whine about the finger anymore or I’ll end up with landscaping duty.

I feel like I should apologize for the lack of media from the triple crown, but I won’t because I think rock climbing is more fun than making movies.  Hopefully the stupid links in my post make up for my laziness.

Looking forward to Horse Pens, happy trails.