Adding Injury to Injury

Disclaimer: This one will probably get a little whiny.

So roughly a week ago, I mentioned doing a little number on my finger and planning to take some time off.  Anybody that knows me well can imagine how the rest of this story goes.  I worked tonight, which was my first mistake.  This newfound job puts me close to the climbing wall when I need to stay as far away as possible.  I remained calm for the first 2 hrs of my shift, chilling out behind the desk and belaying a couple of new climbers.  Then  I moseyed over to the bouldering cave, where I thought I’d warm up a bit and feel out my finger’s condition.  The next 30 mins or so consisted of me warming up very slowly and gradually feeling better and better until I made the terrible decision to get on a crimpy V4 that I had done several times, but had no business touching tonight.  I breezed through the first few moves feeling pretty solid and then set up for the crux:  A quick, easy foot cut to reposition then a big throw.  As my feet cut, a few words from Dave Macleod’s pulley injury article flashed into my mind, specifically this sentence:

“Tears are most often caused when you are pulling hard on a crimp and your feet slip off, placing a sudden additional load on the pulleys.”

As if I was set on illustrating the seriousness of his article to all those present, I heard a quick “po-pop!” and knew immediately that I was out of commission for a while.  As for how long, I really have no idea.  All I know is that I couldn’t feel dumber.

I knew going into tonight that I should, at the very most, top rope easy routes.  For some reason, when I started bouldering and found that I could do problems despite having a hurt finger, I thought I should test the limits.  Unfortunately, the limits were about where they should have been and I exceeded them wildly.  I’m sure there are worse situations, but sitting on your butt thinking about the fact that the only reason you’re not climbing is because you couldn’t control yourself is pretty lousy.   Self inflicted injury really is a major bummer.  If anybody knows of ways to occupy your time besides developing an appreciation for free-form jazz, let me know.

In all seriousness, I’m going to try to fill my recovery time with running, biking, hiking, and ab workouts so that I don’t have too much to catch up on when the finger gets back into shape.  If anybody is psyched on any of the above, let me know and I’ll try to get on a buddy system so I don’t get suicidal trying to work out by myself.  I guess I’ll still end up at Hound Ears next weekend since I’ve already paid for it, it will probably just be a lot of day-dreaming and kicking myself in the butt for not keeping myself well in the week leading up to it.  #2020hindsight

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